Turbo training is one of the most effective ways to get fit on the bike fast.
In my experience, most people who hate turbos have just sat on them and pedalled, or tried doing sessions which aren’t specific to them or their goals (or don't have a bike that fits them!).
The great thing about a turbo is you can do structured intervals, personalised to your fitness and goals, and once you start using the turbo to its full potential, the training benefits, as well as the enjoyment (or if that’s a stretch, then satisfaction!), goes up massively.
Here are some different ways to set the intensity for those intervals:
Defining and measuring intensity
You’ll get far more out of your workouts by training at set intensities, established with regular testing. Here are some different ways to measure what you’re doing (in order of ‘sophistication’ and cost).
1) Feel or perceived effort (RPE, or rate of perceived effort) – The most important metric but the hardest to calibrate. If I say ride at 5/10 effort for an hour you’re likely to put out far more power at the beginning when you’re fresh than at the end when you’re tired. So if the whole session is at 5/10 effort, it should feel more like 4/10 effort at the beginning and 6/10 by the end.
Even if you’re training by power or HR, you should still pay attention to RPE, both to check that your zones are set right and so that you become aware of what it feels like, so that you’re able to ride in feel rather than being tied to watching the screen, especially if you don’t have access to these other metrics when riding outside.
2) Cadence – Cadence isn’t a measure of intensity, it’s how fast your legs are moving (in RPM, revolutions per minute). But power (how we measure intensity) is a product of torque (in simple terms, what gear you’re in or resistance is applied by the trainer) x cadence, so if you stay in the same gear/ resistance and increase leg speed then you’re working harder. If you don’t have any other metrics available then a cadence sensor is pretty cheap and it’s a good proxy for effort, and many sensor and training apps such as Zwift can then calculate that ‘virtual’ power.
Cadence is also important because we can limit risk by staying within a safe cadence range (from about 60rpm – 100 rpm, depending on the person and experience) and can work on developing our technical skill by cycling at different cadences.
3) Heart rate – Another key metric, this shows how hard your body is finding the effort, in the same way as RPE changes for the same power effort (rather than how hard you’re working), which is both an advantage and disadvantage.
An advantage because it can warn you if things are off course (if your heart rate is higher than normal for the same effort, then it’s an indication something might be wrong, for example you’re getting ill or are over tired or stressed and need to adjust your training). It’s also an advantage because a heart rate monitor (HRM) is a lot cheaper than a power meter so even those with a smart trainer might judge effort when outside with a HRM. Bear in mind, if training by HR a strap is usually more accurate than a watch.
A disadvantage because the most efficient way to train is to keep constant power (not effort) and because it can be affected by things like caffeine, sleep or stress and most significantly fatigue, so you’ll get a different reading for the same power.
And it's just not as responsive as power, so you feel less held to account. In the old days we mostly did turbo training by Heart Rate, and it worked fine, but I think I can say, without exception, that clients who have moved from heart rate based training to power based training have had a massively increase in satisfaction (I wont go as far as to say enjoyment!) and results. It's always worth being aware of your HR for a given power, especially if you dont have power when training outdoors, but if possible, I would invest in a power based turbo.
4) Power – The gold standard (ish). This measures the actual power and therefore doesn’t change as you get more tired. This means you’ll go easier at the beginning of an interval so that you can finish it strong, rather than tiring half-way through. Given it’s much more precise you can follow more structured intervals which can keep the training more engaging, and builds accountability. However, you need to check that power meters are calibrated (check manufacturers instructions) and be aware two meters may give very different readings so don’t rely on a turbo reading to set your power out on the road. If you are thinking about buying a turbo or currently have a standard/ non-smart trainer and are thinking of investing in power, personally I would get a power meter for my bike rather than a smart trainer so you can also use it outside.
If you're looking for some help in getting set up with structured training on the turbo give me a shout about my Light Touch turbo training plan, it's a cost effective way to get a tailored training plan with coaching to build your bike fitness.
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